Ortolan bunting

The ortolan, also known as the ortolan bunting, is a member of the bunting family Emberizidae. This small songbird, once classified with finches, is now distinctly recognized by modern ornithologists. Its genus name, Emberiza, derives from Old High German, while the species name, hortulana, originates from the Italian word ortolana. The English term "ortolan" stems from Middle French, meaning "gardener."

In French cuisine, ortolans are esteemed as a delicacy and are traditionally consumed whole. Diners often cover their heads with a napkin while eating the bird, a practice rich in culinary tradition. Over the years, the French ortolan population has declined due to over-hunting, prompting the government to enact protective laws in 1999, with stricter enforcement beginning in 2007.

First described by Carl Linnaeus in 1758, the ortolan bunting (Emberiza hortulana) is closely related to Cretzschmar's bunting. The ortolan inhabits much of Europe and western Asia, with occasional sightings as far away as India. They nest on or near the ground and primarily feed on seeds and insects.

During their autumn migration to Africa, ortolans are traditionally captured and fattened before being drowned in Armagnac and roasted. The traditional consumption method involves eating the bird whole, often with a napkin covering the diner's face. Although ortolan hunting was banned in France in 1999, illegal hunting continued until more robust enforcement measures were introduced.

Under European Union law, it is illegal to deliberately kill, disturb, destroy the nests of, or sell ortolans, whether alive or dead. Despite these protections, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists the ortolan bunting as a species of Least Concern. Ortolans have also been referenced in various cultural contexts, appearing in literature, films, and television shows.