Action Directe

Action Directe, located in the Frankenjura region of Germany, is a legendary climbing spot that has captured the imagination and ambition of climbers from around the world. Renowned for its difficulty, this route is a benchmark for the sport, representing one of the pinnacles of climbing achievement.

Established in 1991 by the iconic climber Wolfgang Güllich, Action Directe is a short but fiercely overhanging route that consists of powerful and dynamic moves. Rated at 9a (5.14d) on the climbing difficulty scale, it was the first route of this grade in the world, setting a new standard for sport climbing at the time.

The climb is characterized by its small, monodoigt (single-finger) pockets and requires a high level of finger strength, body tension, and precision. The crux of the route involves a dynamic leap to a two-finger pocket, which has become an infamous move that many have attempted and few have mastered.

Action Directe's reputation is not merely due to its technical difficulty but also its historical significance in the climbing community. It serves as a milestone for professional climbers, a testpiece that has been a rite of passage for those looking to push the limits of what is possible in sport climbing.

Located in the lush and scenic forests of Northern Bavaria, Frankenjura is home to thousands of limestone climbing routes, but Action Directe stands out as its crown jewel. The climb has attracted elite climbers from across the globe, all eager to add their names to the short list of successful ascents.

As much as it is a physical challenge, Action Directe is also a mental one, demanding immense focus and determination. Climbers who have successfully ascended the route often speak of the intense preparation and the numerous attempts it took to reach the top.